Technology is very useful when it comes to weather forecasting….until it isn’t… Well, last night we were reminded the hard way that unsettled weather is just that…and when the barometer drops we best be on high alert for weather from ANY direction. Well, the GFS model was calling for the “eye” of the TD to pass just to the south of us, so we anchored on the north side of the bay and prepared for wind out of the NW. Well, late last night and without a change in forecast the “eye” passed just north of us and with it brought very strong winds from the SE!!  Around 0300 we found ourselves on a lee shore with 3-4 miles of fetch built up and tossing us around like a bucking bronco! The wind was only about 30 knots sustained but it was the exposed position that was our problem. Our friend Jessie laughed at us for having deployed 150 feet of chain in only 10 feet of water but let me tell you how glad we were to have all the gear out in the middle of that dark torrential storm! Although we were both kept awake by the motion, Ellie didn’t move her position at all and kept her ground. It was a long nervous wait for daylight. Once the sun came up we could see how big the wind waves had gotten and they were about 4-5 feet, which is very large for wind-driven waves in a protected bay. For those of you on SF Bay just imagine anchoring in the middle of the bay in the summer. Ya – not ideal! Well, the resilient Mermaid make quick work of getting both anchors up and we motored slowly to windward bashing into the 25 knots that remained. By mid-morning we were anchored in the lee of palm-tree covered Lekumbi Point and finally out of the worst of the wind waves. We are still dancing around in 25 knots sustained wind but without the huge wind waves which makes all the difference in comfort level.

We feel we keep a healthy respect for the capabilities of weather and sea conditions but perhaps this time we leaned too much on weather forecasting. Our takeaway is that next time we will not rely on the GFS model/Windy.ty to tell us which direction the wind will come from in a passing revolving storm. Instead we will prepare for wind from all directions and either go up a river or head to a cyclone hole. Low pressure systems can and do change direction and intensity quickly and outside of best forecasts. 

Well, now that the system has passed we can expect clearing weather and some much needed sunshine! We hope the inability for this system to intensify into a named storm is signifying the end of cyclone season. We’re ready for settled weather, sunshine and a cooler breeze!

Here are some pics of the storm as it passed over us and a few more of what we do to keep sane while hunkered down waiting for crappy weather to pass. Cheers!

17 April 2016

Lekumbi Point, Bua Bay, Vanua Levu, Fiji

Monday afternoon we decided we’d had enough of Suva and put to sea into stiff trades and rough seas. We had to choose the lesser of two evils: sail into stiff trades but have settled weather, or wait for the low, bringing a break in the trades, rain, poor visibility, and a roll of the dice…. We chose settled weather. With that decision came a tough bash around the corner for 8-10 hours until we could put the trades on the beam and tear off for Vanua Levu. Ellie handled it way better than we did. The poor Mermaid was feeding the dolphins all night. I held it down but swallowing was a real chore; it was VERY rough. Topping off all the fun was incompetent and poorly lit Chinese fishing vessels dancing all around us showing every heading and and light combination possible. I must have tacked half a dozen times within 10 miles of Suva harbor, but we finally left them behind and once we rounded the island we were able to put the wind on the beam for a (relatively) much better ride north. We dodged some ferries and other shipping traffic but other than a visit from the dolphins the next morning the rest of the passage was uneventful.

We spent Tuesday night anchored off Nabouwalu Jetty. Poor anchorage due to the swells wrapping in and rolling us around all night. But the holding was excellent and I was able to go ashore in the morning to take care of some business for our property. Later that afternoon we sailed to Bua Bay and finally escaped the swells. We love the protection this bay affords and we had an excellent nights sleep. Yesterday was spent on boat chores like making water, changing the heat exchanger zinc, and organizing the boat.

Today we have been scrutinizing the forecast which is calling for the tropical depression (17F) to pass through Fiji in the next 36 hours. It has a moderate chance of becoming a cyclone but the current forecasts are calling for winds out of the NW then WNW up to 40 knots. Given the forecast we debated running for Savusavu but it was upwind and guaranteed a tough bash which we could not accomplish in daylight. We considered going up the river here but with only 6″ under our keel at high tide we though it was >50% chance of us running aground and getting stuck. Since our friends were tied up and couldn’t assist with their long boat we took the third option. We headed for the N side of the bay, found a big flat sand/mud patch in 12 feet of water, put out 150 feet of chain shackled to two anchors in tandem and a huge snubber. If the forecast doesn’t change substantially we will ride out the passing low here with minimal issue. Right now it’s a lee shore in the SE wind but the wind should start backing around to the E then NE tonight and come from the N then NW tomorrow. We are expecting heavy rain and lightning. Once again we prepare for battle with Mother Nature; hope she is nice to us again!

Wish us luck for what is hopefully the last potential cyclone of the season. We’ll let you know how we fare.

Cheers!

Anchored:

16 48.58 S, 178 33.42 E

After two (mostly productive) weeks in busy Suva the unsettled weather is forcing us to retreat north. We have one more day of easterly trades before the SPCZ descends on us and with it brings tropical depressions and the potential for another cyclone. Currently Windy.ty is forecasting a 996mb low pressure circulation; and that’s enough to get our attention. Its forecast to hit here Tuesday and we don’t like the protection in this anchorage and we don’t know the holding down there so we’re out at first light. We will sail direct to Savusavu, an overnight run of 140 nautical miles. Tomorrow will be a tough and wet bash into 20+ knot trades but after the first 40nm we can fall off and put the wind just slightly forward the beam and it should be a decent overnight sail north. The current forecast is calling for heavy rain overnight and then the wind to slack off almost completely by Sunday morning. Hopefully there is enough to keep our sails up so we don’t have to motor while getting tossed around in the remnant swells.

We’ll write from Savusavu and let you all know how it went. Wish us luck and good weather. 

Oh, and NO BIKES yet. We patiently waited the first week for the container to be released, we impatiently waited the second week and now I give up. I know it’s Fiji time but come on! We will wait for the phone to ring asking us to come get the bikes, THEN we’ll come back to Suva and pick them up. It’s been a frustrating introduction to shipping companies here. Next time I’ll wait to receive word via a floating coconut before eagerly coming to Suva like a kid on Christmas morning.