Today marks one month since leaving the marina. We have made it a whole month without breaking anything, killing each other, or losing our minds! It also confirms that we can actually live on the hook and stay out of expensive marinas. In the past month we have only put into a marina for one night (in the Delta) and we have spent a grand total of $37 on slip fees. We are slowly getting used to all the sounds Ellie makes while swinging on the hook and the Mermaid is almost able to sleep an entire night without waking in fear of running aground, swinging into other boats, having our dinghy or outboard stolen, etc. We are leaving the bay tomorrow and heading down the coast! Mexico here we come!
We made it to Sausalito on Wednesday morning and dropped the hook in a great spot near the Clipper Yacht Harbor fuel dock. There was just enough space between the other boats. It’s really crowded here because of America’s Cup, but it makes for perfect cockpit time people watching! Surprisingly, we found a great spot tucked in right in front of Clipper Yacht Harbor with a public dingy dock outside Fish Inc. Restaurant.
We quickly landed on an end tie at Schoonmaker Marina and filled up our empty water tanks. We hadn’t taken on water since Pittsburg. Then we dropped the hook, cleaned up Ellie and headed to West Marine (or as Captain Bob says: Worst Maroon!) for some spares and random parts we wanted to take aboard before heading down the coast. A few hundred later (and only one bag!) we headed back to Ellie and made some minor repairs to the forward dorade boxes. I also bought a stainless guard that I am going to splice into the end of our 400′ long 3/4″ storm rode. We will use this to connect our para anchor. I’ll post again once I make the splice (first I have ever attempted).
We also met a nice couple who are anchored next to us on Fire Water. They sailed south from Alaska and have been living aboard Fire Water and cruising together for over 40 years! They invited us aboard for some beer and apple pie (random combination I know) and it was an interesting and educational visit. When they invited us aboard I said yes without hesitation. Phil (Alyssa’s Uncle) and my buddy John both told me on separate occasions that the one thing they regretted from their travels was not accepting offers from strangers, whether for a visit to their home or an excursion or the like. So when Fire Water invited us aboard we went. Richard told stories of how they have sailed over 300,000 miles and this is the 21st time they have headed south along the CA coast. He also told us his secret canning tricks and how to dry fish. They haven’t had a fridge EVER and live off canned food and good ol’ SPAM. They also haven’t had a working head (toilet) in 20 years! haha He said they just use the ol’ bucket! They will be heading out the Golden Gate on Saturday at the same time as us and we will likely be chasing each other down the coast all the way to Mexico.
Well Paradise Cove really lived up to its name on Sunday! I have never seen such a gorgeous day on the bay. The weather was high 80’s, the wind was light to non-existent and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. It felt like we were in the Caribbean or South Florida because there were yachts anchored all around us with people partying and jumping in the bay, ski boats towing tubes and wake boarding and even some wave runners! It was quite the scene!
Just in case you don’t believe me, check out this shot of Princess Pea laying out on the bow – with her temperature sensitivity, you KNOW it was HOT!
It did get a little rolly though from all the wakes so we tried out the flopper stopper that Jason and Emily were gracious enough to gift to us before we departed the marina. We used the spinnaker halyard for a topping lift and tied a preventer to the boom to keep it extended overboard. It worked GREAT! Thanks again guys!
We decided to join in on the fun and both of us jumped into the bay and showered in the salt water because we are running low on fresh water since the only water Napa Marina had was filtered well water and even THEY don’t drink it. It was freezing and I’m still monitoring for ill effects from swimming in the SF Bay… but it was fun.
Then some huge wakes came rolling through and totally fkd up two sailboats that were rafted together! The noise was horrendous! One of the sailboats mast got jammed under the shrouds of the boat he was rafted to! Click on the picture to see what I’m talking about. In short order they hoisted one guy up in the bosuns chair and within a few minutes he was able to free the rig. You would think they would separate after that right? …. well they didn’t but luckily it didn’t happen again.
We spent most of the afternoon just chillin’ out…
By the way, in case you were interested, here is the power generation capability that Ellie rocks – 300 watts of solar panels and a 400 watt wind generator. This setup has proved itself as more than sufficient. We have only
plugged in to shore power ONE time in the past month and our batteries are completely topped off and I am writing this from the computer during peak sunlight hours using the excess capacity from the solar panels. Pretty sweet if you ask me!!
Sunday evening a huge mega yacht showed up and anchored just offshore. The thing had a helicopter! Made me feel like I was on a dinghy! We contemplated going over in the dink but ultimately decided against it. You know what they say: ‘someone’s always got a bigger boat!’
We had a great sail from Napa to Paradise Cove on Saturday. We stopped at the Napa Valley Marina to donate the contents of our holding tank and then cruised down river to the San Pablo Bay. The current picked up after reaching the bay and helped us along. The wind was a relatively moderate 20 – 24kts apparent on the nose. We motor-sailed into it with a full main up sheeted in tight.
We were planning on stopping at China Camp for the night but after seeing the wind direction we decided to push on to Paradise Cove on the lee side of the Tiburon Peninsula.
The Mermaid also received navigation lessons under way. She was learning how to read the radar and compare the image against the chart to identify what markers, ships, land, etc look like on radar. This is a very important skill to master before we head into the dense fog offshore if I have any chance of sleeping during our trip south along the CA coast. She was getting the hang of it and was tracking all the high-speed ferries that were buzzing past us at 30+ knots!
I awoke this morning to a strange engine sound. It didn’t sound like an outboard, it didn’t sound like an inboard, it didn’t sound like the dull drone of the huge inboard diesels from the tugs that keep us awake every night, I wasn’t sure what it was…I had to get up to investigate. So glad I did because it was a seaplane cruising down the river and only 50 feet off the port beam!! Too cool. I grabbed the camera and snapped a shot and took a video. Check it out!
So we made it up the Napa river on Friday August 30th and anchored bow and stern on the north side of the river about a mile upriver from Napa Valley Marina and about 4nm downriver from downtown Napa. We have anchored in this spot before so we knew it would be perfect. To starboard is a beautiful vineyard, to port tall trees and in the distance we can see the mountains on the edge of the valley. There are no boats or people in sight with the exception of the passing fishing boat or tug pushing a barge. We spent a week here without touching the ground tackle and Ellies keel only touched the mud once….not bad.
Once we arrived in the delta our plan was to spend some time relaxing and easing into the ‘good life.’ It took us a week and a half before we could actually ‘chill’ and accept that having nothing to do was OK.
The first day was spent making sure our anchoring arrangement was sufficient and that our stern anchor was digging in below the copious amount of grass and weeds that you find up here. Once we were satisfied that our home wasn’t going anywhere it was party time. We spent the ENTIRE summer getting Ellie ready and now it was our turn to relax and enjoy ourselves. Alyssa started inflating the floating pool toys, I cranked up the music and we started chipping away at the huge stash of Mexican cervezas that were left over from the send off party….now I can get used to this!
By the way – did I mention the Delta is FRESH WATER?? YA – we were diving in, swimming and bathing in FRESH WATER! Ellie loved it as well – she got a bath and all the growth on her fresh new bottom died as soon as we were up here – Awesome.
The sunsets were beautiful. A powerboat that anchored next to us took this great sunset shot.
We got a little restless after a few days of just hanging out in the pool toys and the next day developed a workout routine we could do on the boat. Alyssa went for the workout bands and the instructional DVD and I tried push-ups and sit-ups on the bow. After a few days we had a decent routine down: 1) run up and down the companionway steps for about 15 minutes to get the blood flowing; 2) push-ups and sit-ups on the bow; 3) lunges and squats while holding the 5-gallon water jug over the head.
A few days later I added paddle boarding to the regime…..although we didn’t have a paddle board. I used the zodiac and one paddle. OK it isn’t quite the same and the Mermaid REFUSES to try it based on principle alone. BUT it does provide somewhat of a workout and it’s fun.
Every morning I also swam out to the float that is tied to the stern anchor and cleared about 50lbs of nasty grass off the line. It was a fun game because if there was a strong current running the float would disappear for 10 – 30 minutes at a time before surfacing again. As soon as it surfaced I would dive in and try to make it to the float before it sank again. It kept me occupied every morning.
We also met some great people that were anchored behind the same island. Jack and Aline from Free Spirit’s and their friends. They invited us over for cocktails and we all had a great time visiting. They were very gracious hosts and we all became friends.
Rina (Mother Mermaid, Princess Mom, Moma-Dupolus) came and visited and we all had an awesome time and we totally digressed back to party mode. It was a perfect day with super warm weather and NO WIND. The entire river was glass. We loaded up the cooler with ice, packed it with wine and beer and literally sat in the floats all day until we were all burnt to a crisp! We had a great visit.
After about a week and a half at anchor we needed to pump out our holding tank and take on fresh water so we headed to Willow Berm Marina which is about 3-4 miles from where we were anchored. We had the opportunity to PAY $37 for one night on an end-tie that was perfectly lined up to throw us against the dock with every wake. This was Friday night and let’s just say that the traffic was at a peak.
There was even a fishing tournament EARLY Saturday morning and no less than 40,000 fishing boats went racing past us……didn’t get much sleep. BUT Princess Pea was able to shower and blow dry her hair and we were able to do laundry. The next day we even borrowed bikes from the marina and rode around the island which was nice.
Saturday afternoon we headed back to our little Island and our perfect spot was still there so we tied up again, dropped a stern hook (with a fender as a float so it wouldn’t sink) and were glad to be back in the lee of the island and relatively protected from wakes.
The ONE mistake we made this time was we tied a little too close to the island. The result was evident that evening when we were watching a movie and conservatively 30,000 tiny flying bugs covered the entire screen and were all over the ceiling. INVASION!! Are the screens closed??!? They were. Then WTF? How did they get in??
Turns out these little fkrs are so small they can get through our screens. I was so grossed out and had no way to get rid of them I ordered all lights to be turned out, much to the chagrin of the Mermaid. The next day we staged for war against the bugs. Step one was to ease the lines that were tied to the island to buy us some distance. The Mermaid went to work on replacing the screens with no-see-um screen. Luckily we had a ton of it aboard already. After a couple days all the screens were repaired and every other hatch had no-see-um screen. It worked and we only had a few stragglers that made it through each evening.
Did I mention we also had a few mosquitos that made it in the night of the invasion? Well, I went on Amazon and $100 later we had a mosquito trap, coils, sprays, bombs, even a roach bait station, oh and an electric fly swatter that looks like a tennis racket. Bring it on bugs!! The Mermaid says I have a problem with bugs – I don’t deny it.
After we had the bugs under control we chilled out for a few more days. Alyssa set up the hammock on the fore deck. We read books, worked on the blog, worked out and relaxed. We even found a great happy hour spot – the Riverboat Restaurant in Isleton. They have microbrews for $2 from 4 – 6pm. We went three days in a row!
We decided to head to Napa on Friday before the long weekend to avoid all the crowds and craziness. It was a perfect window of weather with relatively light winds and we made it in a single day covering about 50nm.
I’ll leave you with a cool picture of some mating dragon flies that were in our lazy jacks. These guys were everywhere! You would be laying in a pool float and they would land on your toes – pretty cool.
After leaving the marina we headed straight to warmer climes; in the SF bay that means the Delta. The first day we motor-sailed from Redwood City to Middle Slough near Pittsburg covering approximately 50nm. We spend the night at anchor and in the morning we had a delicious breakfast and left Middle Slough bound for Potato Slough, a trip of approximately 25nm up the San Joaquin river.
Once we were under way I decided it would be a waste if we didn’t trail at least one fishing line. The Salmon are starting to run up the river and any free protein we can snag means more money left over for beer! So out went the line on our largest ocean rod. We put the rod in the port rod holder – a mistake that will become clear in a few sentences…
About 15 minutes later Alyssa said she smelled something and asked if I could smell it. I said it was probably outside but asked if she could check the engine compartment to see if she could smell it down below. She came back up and said it was very strong near the engine bay and smelled like something burning. I immediately started searching for a place to drop the hook so we could shut the engine down and assess the situation. We dropped the hook behind an island and shut down the engine.
In the process of turning the boat around, the damn ocean rod we were trailing on the PORT side was high enough to get its line completely tangled in the wind generator! So we have something burning in the engine bay and a fouled wind generator…great.
I decided to focus on the burning smell first. It seemed to be coming from the aft starboard lazarette. We emptied out the lazarette and were trying to identify the culprit. I noticed the low pressure pump on the watermaker was piping hot – oh fk. One look at the watermaker control panel verified it – we accidentally hit the switch and the pump was running dry and generating a ton of heat. I opened the fuse box and the fuse was melted in two pieces! Well at least it was just a fuse and possibly an impeller but nothing catastrophic. Once we put everything back in the lazarette it was wind generator time.
I climbed on top of the monitor windvane and stern rail and cut the monofilament out of the wind generator and it appeared that I got it all out. Turns out a few days later the blades stopped spinning and I had to repeat the process but eventually got it all out.
So with control restored we pushed on the rest of the day and had a gorgeous sail – or rather drift – to Potato Slough. We flew a full jib and averaged 3.5 knots. By the late afternoon we were anchored in the lee of a peaceful little island with very good protection from the howling afternoon “delta breeze.”