Category Archives: Fanning to Penrhyn

Internet?!?! Here?!?! Yup – Here are some pics!!

Unbelievably, this tiny village of 50 people, on a small atoll 800 miles away from what we would call “civilization” has reasonable internet service. I am typing these words from the nav table at anchor! You have to love technology sometimes… I bet a thank you is also in order for the Cook Islands Protectorate, New Zealand. Thanks Kiwi’s! 

And without further ado…pictures!!

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The Beautiful Mermaid on the Bow in Honolua Bay, Maui, Hawaii
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Just a friendly turtle in Honolua Bay…
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The Intrepid Crew Under Way for Fanning Island
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The first day and a half out was glorious
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WAHOO!!!
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The sexy Mermaid filleted it up!
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Then conditions deteriorated. Luckily we have a tough salty woman aboard who has the patience to get the monitor set!
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She also whips up some mean deviled eggs. I washed those bad boys down with a draft amber ale. For a minute we almost forgot how rough and uncomfortable the conditions had gotten…
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Naked sailing…in a squall
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Go away squalls!
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The 40 knot welcoming party that greeted us upon arrival to Fanning. Look at the angle of the mast on the Island Packet (left). The waves were about 4 feet in the anchorage. It was intense.
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The next day we cleared customs and immigration. They were thrilled to have ice and were pleasantly confused by the jalepeno artichoke dip and tortilla chips.

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The town pier in Fanning. Levi from SHOSTROM doing a headstand.
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The main road in Fanning Island… The large building is the town meeting hall
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Dinner….trying to escape
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Ruby was teaching Yoga to the locals. Alyssa second from the left…
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Jenny (sv Levana) brought balloons for the kids, which were a hit!
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Bruno built a small hut for each of his children; this one for Agnes
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The dining table at Bruno’s house. Huge globe over the table. He WAS a sailor you know…
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The home he built. Each stone was taken from the windward side of the reef. He did an amazing job.
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The interior of Bruno’s home (upstairs). He re-purposed his boat in many creative ways.
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Lyss and Ruby toasting their Kava bowls. Tastes like dirt and makes you tired, but apparently the locals are hooked
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Ellie resting at anchor on a calm day in Fanning
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The locals still get around in traditional sailing craft. Although this guy somehow acquired a few plastic hulls. I bet he would win the island regatta…if they ever had one.
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Going out to drift the pass at Fanning
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Fanning as seen from seaward
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Life enhanced by Maui Jim (a future sponsor maybe??)
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Lyss with her new BFF girlfriend, Ruby, from s/v DRINA
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An ecstatic Ruby on our evening booze cruises. Sunken tug boat in the background.
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This sunken tug has been here a while. I never got the full story…
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This is the shot I’ll send Maui Jim with our sponsorship request…
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Kiribati sailing canoe. Can you spot the LED lawn light I gave them? Now they can legally operate in US waters….OK probably not.
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Ruby gifting one of the lights to a friendly local I-Kiribati man
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The man’s humble home. See where he put the light?
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The Kiribati Culligan Man… Drinking from wells such as this one is why so many of them are sick.
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The inside of a typical humble I-Kiribati dwelling. The woman on the right – the man from the earlier picture’s wife – is pregnant and sick. The kids were very shy and cute. The whole family sleeps in here.
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Another family we gifted lights to.
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Under way for Penrhyn. Sunset alert!
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Another shot for our future sponsors: Maui Jim

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Another amazing meal of Wahoo
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Does she look ecstatic to be inside the lagoon at Penrhyn or what?

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The ladies all dressed up outside the church. Alyssa second from the left. The hats are required attire…
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The Reverend and his wife, Mama Tata, invited all the yachties to an after church feast of tuna, lobster, chicken and rice



Bashing Towards Penrhyn – Will Make Landfall Today

Kia Orana Tongareva! [Hello Penrhyn!]

We are continuing to bash our way closer to Penrhyn (Tongareva). Only 26 more miles to go. We should be inside the pass by 2:00pm local.

The last 200 miles have been very hard earned. We have been close on the wind, sailing when we can and motor-sailing when the wind dictates. We have been battling squall after squall. The wind direction is all over the map. The current is moderately strong and fluctuates between 0.5 and 1.0 knots. The interesting part is the current is coming from the SE, not the E as I expected. Right now we are heading SE and have the current right on the nose. Only making 3 knots VMG towards Penrhyn with the engine on.

We dumped the last two jerry jugs of diesel in the tank yesterday and are now down to about 6-7 gallons. We really hope they can sell us some fuel. They just installed a huge solar farm on the island and no longer run the diesel generator station so we’re hoping we can buy some fuel from them. It’s all downwind to Samoa but we like to have the safety margin and be able to move in light air, when the seas are calm.

We are both ready to be done with the longest leg of the season. We have sailed over 2,000 miles since leaving Oahu less than a month ago. To put that into perspective, the distance we have already covered is the same distance required to: cross the Atlantic Ocean, sail from Alaska to Cabo, or to sail from San Francisco to Guatemala! The rest of the season is all downwind to Australia. That will be a very welcome change. Better grease up the whisker pole! Time to slow down, explore, relax and catch up on the growing list of boat projects.

During my watch last night I was sitting against the stern rail and had my face in the breeze and I swear I smelled the fragrant aroma of fresh tiare flowers. I didn’t know it was possible for a scent to travel this far but I swear I smelled it for about 10 minutes. It’s not from Penrhyn or any atoll because the flowers only grow on high fertile islands like the Marquesas, 1,000 miles to the east. Alyssa thinks I’m full of it but I swear I smelled the flowers. Someone look it up and see if it’s possible for a scent to travel that far, or just let me know I need to check my sanity and stop putting in a thousand sea miles per week.

Manuia,
Lewis & Alyssa

May 22, 2015
15:10 Z
08 44 S
158 25 W
148 T
4.0 KTS