We had an awesome sail into Bahia Magdelena today from Bahia Santa Maria. We had breakfast, brought the anchor up and pointed Ellie’s bow south. We were expecting benign conditions because the GRIBs and weather fax were calling for less than 10 knots. Not exactly what happened…. An 18-25 knot SW wind quickly filled in and we were close hauled sailing under a reefed main and partially furled jib making 6-7 knots! That’s right, I said SOUTH wind! It was crazy to be sailing south close on the wind, but a lot of fun. We were racing south past the towering lush green mountains on the south side of Bahia Santa Maria and quickly approaching Punta Entrada on the north side of the entrance to Bahia Magdelena.
En route we caught two fish! The first was a Mexican Bonito and the second was a Skipjack! The skipjack was larger than the tuna we caught; he was huge! I knew it was a big one when he was dragging in the wake so much the bungee cord was pulled tight the entire time. I wrestled him in and after less than a minute onboard he managed to get blood everywhere! I finally got through his spine and dispatched him. The freezer and fridge are now full of tuna, lobster, bonito and skipjack….and we haven’t seen a fish market or grocery store in over 500 miles! Awesome.
We had a bit of current against us as we entered Mag Bay which made for a bumpy entrance. It was similar to the potato patch off SF Bay. As we turned downwind to enter the bay, poor Ellie got thrown beam-to-beam in the steep swells, but we were in the lee of Punta Entrada soon enough and headed back north on flat water. The wind was still stiff at 15-18 knots from the W and we were making 6.5 knots on a beam reach. It was one of those glorious sails that us bay sailors dream about. We sailed about 10 miles north until we reached Puerto Magdelena in Man-of-War cove.
We set the anchor hard, cleaned our catch, loaded the dinghy and headed for the village. Once on shore we found the only eating establishment in town and settled into some beach chairs with a cold cerveza. We ordered up some fish tacos (that may have been shark meat) and made a toast to an awesome sail. The guy who ran the restaurant was very friendly and welcoming. The beach here is littered with enormous whale bones and there are remnants of whaling stations littered along the western shore.
We walked around the village and found a hut with english letters painted on the front “Grocery Store” Score! Except not. It was abandoned and only a chair and a table remained…..I guess we will have to wait until Cabo for more fresh produce…
We did manage to snag a case of cerveza from the restaurant, but when we were unloading it on the boat we found a ROACH! Alyssa was thoroughly grossed out! I threw it overboard, we bagged the cardboard, bleached the cans and vowed to never bring packaging onboard ever again!
Not sure how long we’ll be in Mag Bay, but the fishing is suppose to be amazing, so we better make some room in the freezer!